How are surfing and mindfulness connected? A reflection on broths and full attention with acceptance
The flow of water around the fingers and feet, noticing the body's imbalance when sitting on the floating board, exaggerated thoughts on the danger of the sea, feeling the heat of the sun on the back or In the chest (depending on if surfing is in the morning or afternoon), perceive the wind on the skin, to be afraid to see a series of large waves, realize the despair under water when I take a broth… This is a little of the ambivalence of attention Full present when I surf, whether in the body, whether in thoughts or emotions. Maybe Mindfulness can show only positive things, but Mindfulness is to feel and realize also those things that make us distressed, such as the unpleasant thoughts I mentioned above....
September 19, 2024